Wild Wild East – With Gravelbikes from Görlitz to Usedom | Page 2 of 2

Day 2 – Be childish, be free

9 am, Lake Deulowitzer. The sun is just peeking out from above the treetops. Two hairy-chested mermaids emerge from the glistening water. Shoes on, let’s go! For breakfast we dine on the local Lausitz delicacy of a generously buttered sandwich. Today is packed with adventure (although we don’t quite know how much yet): adventure mode on, we spring into action, carrying the bikes, swatting at stinging nettles, and giving each other a leg-up to pinch some cherries along the way and then scoff a kebab before having a short siesta on a car park.

140 kilometres later, our dust-covered legs burn as we cross the final pitch of cobbles and attempt to finish the day’s remaining 30 kilometres before the sun’s early withdrawal crushes us. We had the national park of Schwedt an der Oder in our sights.

For dinner, we repeat the same petrol station maneuver, going for a Magnum ice cream, Coca-Cola and a Mars bar. Our parents would be proud! Account balance: €67.31 remaining.

Day 3 – Disaster incoming…

What an amazing day… that we had yesterday! It had ended on a high when the local boating association offered us the use of their boathouse for the night, although we politely declined, preferring the open night sky. When the sun teased its way through the wispy bits of mist, we knew we’d made the right choice in the morning. Who needs a roof over their head or a Champagne breakfast in St Tropez?

Today is all about reaching the island of Usedom. With the destination approaching, we switch from a jersey into a t-shirt and are suddenly hit by the realisation that this right here is what gravel feels like. Freedom that’s fluttering in the wind. A tailwind escorts us swiftly across Uckermark – ‘the borderland of the border’. We’re brought back to reality with a minor crash, but fortunately the wounds are minor. Over lunch we mull over the options for reaching Usedom, managing to eat no fewer than six minced meat sandwiches from a corner shop before Google unceremoniously informs us that the last ferry to Usedom from Ückermünde leaves at 15.30. Time to get going!

The tailwind intensifies and turns into a storm while the route tries to take us across a no-access military zone. We hesitate before continuing inexorably onwards – there’s time pressure on us now. The final few kilometres to Ückermünde morph into a sloppy mess, with the rain turning the parched ground into something akin to quicksand. We’re reduced to walking pace, quite literally. We boldly plough through this self-inflicted state of affairs, learning the lessons of adventuring without a plan.

We’re beaming like goons when we eventually reach the harbour town and realise we’ll still make the boat. It looks like Ückermünde has everything in abundance, apart from smiles and friendliness, but we don’t let the frosty reception taint our mood. The price of the ferry, however, is a bit of a slap in the face. When I’d broached the subject of ferry tickets, Anatol had waved the question away, muttering something like ‘ah, just a couple of euros.’ It transpired that he’d vastly underestimated and we had to shell out €25 each. Up until now we’d managed to keep 54 euros in our stash, but now we barely had enough for a luke-warm cup of tea on the boat.

My legs are shaking. I cast a glance behind me and observe the traces of our tires in the sand. This is Usedom! We’ve made it! Clothes off, we dive into the sea. The past few hours had been a blur since disembarking the ferry, riding to Heringsdorf, and jubilantly high-fiving at the city limit sign. I see images from the past few days flash in front of my eyes, a slideshow of emotions. Multi-day rides make so much more of an impression than just a regular A to B ride.

Lessons Learned: Leave the credit card at home
It’s only when you shelve your competitive aspirations that you can truly be aware of the world around you. The artificially imposed budget forces you to be extra creative, and makes you seek out interaction and human contact. It’s a way of confronting fears too: the fear of being turned away; of taking unknown and unpaved ways; of making the wrong decision; of not knowing where you’ll end up sleeping that night. You learn a cost-conscious way of eating; where each morsel is weighed up for its nutritional value before being enjoyed and not simply consumed.

Over time you start to assess your lifestyle, about what you actually need and not just what you want to buy. You reach a meditative state, lulled by the sensation of being hungry and the monotony of pedalling. Gravel as a means of escape and as a teacher. Looking back on the experience is when you’ll take stock of the greater path you’ve ridden and you’ll be eager to go further, and learn more next time. Anatol, when are you calling me again?

Gravel tips:

1. When in doubt: act first, consider afterwards.^*
2. Don’t pedantically count every cent you spend, but do keep a rough tally in your head.
3. Don’t fuel yourself purely on sweets and junk food!
4. Don’t hesitate! The trip will teach you how to make decisions – and see them out until the bitter end. Just because there might be obstacles on the path doesn’t mean you’re at a dead-end. The same applies to human encounters: grab every opportunity to talk to strangers. The content of what you say doesn’t matter, it’s enough just to make the effort to say something. Staying silent won’t win any friends.
5. The Garmin Edge 1020 defied the conclusion of our group test by proving a dominant force when it comes to gravel rides. It knows every single access road and all you have to do is put a dot on the map and it’ll get you there. Being able to zoom in on the detailed map also means you can scope out potential dead ends, even in the woods. However, gravel pros will always take a map and compass, relying on local knowledge for more definite tips. Hipster and vintage, yes, but also a worthy way of exploring and appreciating your surroundings more.
6. Avoid supermarkets and fast-food chains. Try new things. Imagine going home and telling your mates that you just schlepped from McDonald’s to McDonald’s, with Happy Meals taking up the majority of the budget. Ask locals where to get the best (and most affordable) food. Once they’re aware of your mission, who knows what they’ll suggest?
7. That limited budget relies on creativity. So don’t hold back.
8. Get over your vanity, revulsion and fear of being alone. Ask yourself: what’s the worst that could happen?
9. Take full responsibility for your actions and accept the decisions you make.
10. Go and play, have fun! Forget what other people may or may not think about you. Be yourself and do exactly what you feel like. Trust us, it’s a good feeling.
11. Ok, take a debit or credit card with you – although seal it in an envelope under the strict rule of ‘only for emergencies’! You picked this challenge, right?

^*Unless you’re in a country where it’s normal for landowners to use guns to protect their land. There you should make sure that you always respect access rights.

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